• Wider bat houses can be built for larger colonies. Be sure to adjust dimensions for back and front pieces and ceiling strip.
  A ¾" support spacer may be required in the center of the roosting chamber for bat houses over 24" wide to prevent warping.
• Two bat houses can be placed back to back, mounted on poles. Before assembly, a horizontal ¾" slot should be cut in the back
  of each house about 9" from the bottom edge of the back piece to permit movement of bats between houses. Two pieces of wood,
  1" × 4" × 4¼", screwed horizontally to each side, will join the two boxes. To provide additional roosting space, leave a 3/4" space between the two houses, and roughen the wood surfaces or cover the back of each with plastic mesh. (Do not cover the rear exit slots; see item 4 below). One 1" × 4" × 34" vertical piece attached to each side over the horizontal pieces blocks light, but allows bats and air to enter. A galvanized metal roof, covering both houses, protects the center roosting area from rain. Eaves should be about 3" in southern areas and about 1½" in the north.
• Ventilation may not be necessary in cold climates. In this case, the front should be a single piece 23" long. Smaller bat houses like this one will be less successful in cool climates. However, those mounted on buildings gain heat faster, maintain thermal stability better and are more likely to attract bats.
• Durable plastic mesh can be substituted for roughening to provide footholds for bats. Attach one 20" × 24½" piece to backboard after staining interior, but prior to assembly.

Special thanks to Bat Conservation International for allowing us to use their plans for building a bat house.
To learn more about bats visit their web site at: http://www.batcon.org

Go back to the bat removal page

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